Anyone care to share their MS wheel settings?

To be honest I have never changed th MS wheel settings they are just the default settings. The only thing I changed was the force feedback which I reduced a bit so the wheel wasn't trying to jump out of my hands.

Re-Posted from our old forums from TomCat's post:

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Setup #1: 
Steering axis inside - 2% to 5% depending on the quality of your wheel, and trust me some MS wheels are good, and many more are poor. Go as low as you can without having the car wonder or follow every rut in the track (too low a setting will almost feel like having way to much positive toe would) 

Steering axis outside - around 90% if you turn your wheel to full lock to hard it will sometimes downshift or bring up the guide, so you want full lock without having physically hit full lock on the wheel. 

Brake deadzone inside - 0% The pedal already has a deadzone, adding one here just makes it worse. The exception is if you find yourself resting your foot on the pedal when your not actually on the brake, check your telemetry 

Brake deadzone outside - 100% without ABS, or 90%-95% with ABS 

Throttle deadzone inside - 0%-5% again if you find your resting your foot on the pedal raise this setting 

Throttle deadzone outside - 95% I ran this on my wheel because I wasn't getting full throttle setting it any higher, if you run TCS you could set this as low as 80% honestly 

Force Feedback scale - 40% now this is really personal preference, but I found that 40% was the perfect balance between getting the feedback I needed and being able to maintain control when I put a wheel wrong or the mystery pull of the force feedback down entire straights kicked in (if you haven't experienced it, knock on wood now!) 

Vibration scale - really doesn't matter, even at 100% I almost never even notice it. 

Setup #2----[ Wheel ]---- 
Steering axis deadzone inside: 0%-2% 
Steering axis deadzone outside: 70-75% 
comment: steering speed almost matches controller 

Brake deadzone inside: 0% 
Brake deadzone outside: 100% 
Throttle - the same 
comment: immediate reaction to any feet movement, even slight touch. Kicking throttle doesn't brake traction as with usual inside:15, outside 90. 
Brakes depend highly on car, but with 0%/100% you get highest possible feeling. 

Force Feedback Scale: 25% 
comment: As force feedback only slows you down, 25% is enough to both have fun _and_ have decent lap times. YMMV. 

Vibration Scale: 60% 
comment: understanding vibration signals is what makes you alot faster than with controller as one quickly understands if suspesion is too stiff, or when tires are on the edge of traction. The higher the better, 60% is enough for me. 

----[ Cars ]---- 
General tuning guide (subjective, non-expert, only 24 TrueSkill). 

I'll only discuss RWD cars, since FWD are so unrealistic, that it almost doesn't metter if you use wheel or controller. I make an assumption that you drive RWD car with TCS on and FWD car with TCS off. Never, ever use STM or be prepared to loose any race. Always use ABS with the wheel, expecially with RWD cars that have unrealistically low grip in FM2. 

As for the brakes: DON'T set braking bias in RWD cars to front! Front tires in RWD cars are usually smaller than wide rears. Front brake bias makes you slower and more error prone. Exactly opposite in FWD, where front bias makes brakes more predictible. 

With above wheel settings try to drive a car that has toe front and rear set to 0. Than change it to front 0.1, rear -0.2. Also set caster to 5.5. 
Understand already? It's not the wheel that is off center or inadequate. The Car has problems with driving straight, not the wheel (!). 

As wheel is very good for subtle direction changes, as you can correct your course, easly tighten course or only add a little throttle - you might choose a car that benefits from such techniques. Feeling tires braking loose and having instant notification when a tire hits a bump, you might easly drive on the edge of traction. 

With tight steering axis settings you are able to quickly make up for oversteer (by subtle yet quick contersteer). 

With alot of feeling with throttle, you are able to do what controller users cannot: push both pedals with different angles. You might slowly lift of gas (not completly) and hit the brake to the floor, finishing braking inside the corner. 
You might touch the gas just before exiting the turn, thus allowing RWD car to literally rocket out of corners (touching throttle makes rear wheels to add to your steering, it tightens corners). 

Finally with both pedals pressed, you are able to drive RR Porsches, what is impossible with the controller (for RR combinations, you may never take feet of the gas). 

With subtle controlls, you are able to accelerate just a little and overtake someone on the outside, or on exit (hitting throttle on exit makes you to tighten the turn). 

So, what car for the wheel? 
1. high grip, light weight (Lotuses for example). Any car that has high grip benefits from using whole avail traction. IMHO it's easier with the wheel. 
2. high power rwd matched by handling (yes, that means S-class and above) 
3. rwd cars with turbo (you need to be able to lift off the gas when turbo starts to spin rear wheels, but completly letting off makes things even worse). The C-class Saleen is a good example. 
4. RR setups 
5. low power FWD with tcs off (stock Ford Focus SVT for example). Why? You are able to both enter and exit the turn with front wheels spinning (loosen traction). Braking front wheel traction just a little, with strong steering input makes you exit a corner alot faster than any other option. This is both true for real life and FM2. 

----[ Tracks ]---- 
There are tracks where the wheel makes you quicker, no matter the car. 
1. Sunset Infield (big oval, and late braking & drifing through the rest) 
2. Maple Valley (big oval and the last turn) 
3. Tsukuba (last turn) 
4. Sebring (alot of turns benefit from touching throttle after apex) 

There are also track extremaly bad for the wheel because of FWD preference and controller doing great job on aiding player: 
1. Mugello (extremely quick steering is a must on chicanes) 
2. Mazda Laguna Seca (last turn is a nightmare for both the wheel and rwd cars) 
3. Test tracks (strong fwd preference, high power is useless, quick steering is a must) 

----[ Fun ]---- 
Get a car with very stiff suspension setup and drive it on Nuerburgring. Feel the beauty of both force feedback and vibration information. It's like you were touching the tarmac with bare hands. Every bump, every stone.... I'm not buying any other game in a long time... Nuerburgring with above wheel setups is ... just too good. 

Please correct me where I'm wrong and share your wheel setups, your car setups for the wheel. I'm especially interested with toe set to 0 and 0.1/-0.2. Do you feel the same as I do?

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Hope that helps

These were T10's suggested settings from FM3 and is also what some other people were running:

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T10 Pitpass Report Wheel Settings

Recommended Wireless Steering Wheel Settings:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside - 0%
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside - 100%
Brake Deadzone Inside - 10%
Brake Deadzone Outside - 90%
Throttle Deadzone Inside - 10%
Throttle Deadzone Outside - 100%
Forza Feedback Scale - 100%
Vibration Scale - 100%

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B Quiet N Drive Settings

Steering Axis Dead Zone Inside 2%
Steering Axis Dead Zone Outside 75%
Brake Dead Zone Inside 10%
Brake Dead Zone Outside  98%
Throttle Dead Zone Inside 10%
Throttle Dead Zone Outside 98%
Force Feedback Scale 100%
Vibration Scale 100%

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mnchkn N Drive Settings tcs-abs

Steering Axis Dead Zone Inside 0%
Steering Axis Dead Zone Outside 100%
Brake Dead Zone Inside 2%
Brake Dead Zone Outside  100%
Throttle Dead Zone Inside 0%
Throttle Dead Zone Outside 100%
Force Feedback Scale 100%
Vibration Scale 100%

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fastviper PL wheel setup

----[ Wheel ]----
Steering axis deadzone inside: 0%-2%
Steering axis deadzone outside: 70-75%
comment: steering speed almost matches controller

Brake deadzone inside: 0%
Brake deadzone outside: 100%
Throttle - the same
comment: immediate reaction to any feet movement, even slight touch. Kicking throttle doesn't brake traction as with usual inside:15, outside 90.
Brakes depend highly on car, but with 0%/100% you get highest possible feeling.

Force Feedback Scale: 25%
comment: As force feedback only slows you down, 25% is enough to both have fun _and_ have decent lap times. YMMV.

Vibration Scale: 60%
comment: understanding vibration signals is what makes you alot faster than with controller as one quickly understands if suspesion is too stiff, or when tires are on the edge of traction. The higher the better, 60% is enough for me.

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Again, hope this helps you out.

Cheers!

I have had the problem with the guide comming up or changing down a gear for no apparent reason, it doesn't happen very often. I must change the steering outside axis to 90.

Just the dog settings to fine tune now then