Damn basher...thats really awesome! Great work! I did take the plundge and upgraded to the CSPs at the end of 2010. I still have my standard pedals (now stored in the attic). Your device would have been much cheaper but oh well lol
Having gone primarily PC racing now, I was really looknig forward to get the full experince of my turbo s wheel. Well prob is the damn pedals were so flaky and sporadic that i wound up tossing the thing in the corner and lawyer4ever came to my rescue with a logitech drving force gt wheel. There was just no way i was going to afford or get ok for clubsorts...and honestly, alittle preturbed I was going to have to buy a set of pedals. So, I must say for a cheap wheel, the logitech has been great and is punished greatly every week and it still keeps chuggin alone..but yes no xbox compatibility. I had reverted back to the MS wheel for Forza at the time as the clutch would constantly kick in while racing on the turbo s and i would loose speed or get unpredictable corner exits.
Well, today in the mail came a little yellow bubble envelop from Basher Boards. Upon opening the very well sealed package...I found to my delight, inside was a baggie containing a 10'ft cable, easy to read instructions and my little black box. I was excited to see what this little gem could do. Now remeber , having put away the Fanatec... I had to come back and reinstall the drivers for the wheel on my pc and fired up the Fanatec Control program. before i installed the PF1 i decided to test and see if the old problems were still there. Yup almost 5 minutes for the wheel to recognize the pedals and when it did, the meters for each pedal were bouncing everywhere...wasn't getting full gas and the clutch was engaging almost half way EVERY time. So...time to see what the little black box could do. Folled the instruction to turn wheel off , unplug pedals , put filter box in between and reconnect with supplied cable and fired the wheel back on...
Went to the Fanatec control screen and no meter readings...nothing...oh oh..what happened? Well nothing....nothing WAS happening cause the dirty signal from the pedals was being filtered...press the gas...gas meter followed my foot movement smoothly..and NO clutch value on it's meter! Same with brake, smooth intime levels on the meter..and exact same for clutch...mash the pedals, stomp on the brakes, speed shift with the clutch...Perfect! Nothing came on or triggered or flickered that wasn't supposed to be! My turbo s now gets to have the dust blown off it and can resume it's place on my desktop for what it was meant to do...fun, accurate and responsive gameplay! You actually saved my wheel from becoming a swapped item for another Logitech GT back up wheel!
Thanks BasherBoards, You're a Life (while in the fanatecs case) Saver!
Sincerely Ian
(Jon you're welcome to take this as a testemonial for your website if you want)
The subject matter written above is 100% true and accurate and is in no way fabricated to promote the product. It does exactly as it says it will..amazing..someone actually knows what that means these days :)
I just wanted to let you guys know that after testing it doesn't look like these work with the clubsports. So... if your expensive pedals aren't working, sorry :( I don't even have a set to test with and probably won't ever.
I think that Your box can work when the signal will be filtered only for throttle and clutch as i think they are still oridinary pots - brake as load cells going vie amplifier etc. and can not work. I'm not sure what the construction of the elite pedals is... but when the problem is poor quality pots You can always connect filter straight to the pots - some soldering - or make in-out plugs for pedals board.....
Here's a video I made tonight showing what they do. My pedals were actually recognized by the wheel without the filter this evening... That's a rarity.
Anyhow, if nothing else it's good for a laugh watching me fumble through it :D
This should be posted on the Fanatec wheel fansite: www.f-wheel.com. I hope Thomas doesnt get upset at you for fixing his pedals lol
Since youre good with circuits Basher, you may be able to fix the mic issues with the Fanatec wheels too. Where I would start is comparing the mic circuit on the MS Wireless Wheel with the one on the Fanatec. It should be basically the same. It would be sooooo cool if there were a little box to plug in between the mic port on the wheel and whatever wired mic you want to use, and it works..every time. The small box may even require its own power, like a couple AA's or a 9V. I have a spare 911 wheel for parts, and I can offer you the mic circuit from it, if you want it. It does work fine with my standard wired MS headset when I used it last. Whats interesting, is that while my X11 mic works with the Fanatec wheel quite well, after a long racing session (usually about 45mins to an hour) the wheel will do funny things. Like disconnect from the Xbox, FFB *sticks* the wheel all the way to the left, or act as if I unplugged the mic cord from the wheel even though I did not. Any of those require the wheel to be shut off and back on. But those things ONLY happen when I use the X11, not the standard wired headset. I'm thinking maybe there is a grounding conflict between the X11 and the Fanatec, since the X11 is powered separately from the wheel. Or the other possibility is just the wheel itself getting too hot and it just freaks out. Whatever I can do to assist let me know.
Is it possible that you may have the answer for the CSR ELITE Wheel and the problem with headsets, such as the Turtle Beach 500's, that do not work with the CSR Elite Wheel. Here I have a $550 Wheel and cannot use my headset to communicate with others while playing Forza 4. Works Fantastic with PS3. TV Sound and Microsoft Bluetooth and headset doesn't cut it. I need my Turtle Beach Headset ($250) to work. Here we have a company (Microsoft) who licesenses others to make products and support their systems and yet they are not compatible.
Ok so I did some research on this last night... Based upon what I have found and without having a set in my hands... Here's what I can tell you about the Clubsport, CSR Elite, etc. pedals.
They use a load cell for the brake. The load cell itself is cheap not intended for the duty cycle it's being used for. Much like the pots in the standard wheel. The surrouning mechanism, could well be contributing to them failing.
The gas and clutch are using hall sensors which I'm not going to explain here, but they are contactless and should never wear out.
All three pedals are being run through a circuit board which generates signals that are then sent to the wheel.
My short answer as to using this filter with them is you can't. (Seahawks tested that for me already) My short answer for why is, I don't know until I get a set in my hands to mess with. What I'd LOVE, is to make a circuit board to replace theirs and a new braking mechanism that doesn't break. hehe pardon the pun :) Using a load cell is a marketing gimmick and the same "feel" can be accomplished a number of ways while maintaining accuracy and longevity.
I believe the $80 CSR pedals still use pots... and if that is the case, this filter should work with them. However, I still need someone to test that for me.
Does this also apply to the CSP's? By the way the CSR pedals don't have the load cell. I ask because the CSP's are to be my next upgrade but I am a heavy user of my kit, usualy several hours at a time and I need to know that what I buy will be up to the job.
The stardard clubsport pedals which is what I think CSP is, use the load cell. I'm sure they will be fine for you, many people around here have them. You might buy an extra load cell with them though as I think they are no longer producing them. It seems as though it's a consumable part based upon what I've read.
Damn man. :( Sorry to hear about the load cell. If anyone has a spare one of these, I'd love to take a look at it. I know what they look like in general, but I'm curious about the one in the clubsports.
Some good news for you CSR pedal users, possibly... I have a guy that will be testing the box for me with his CSR pedals. The CSR pedals are basically the same thing as the old pedals in a much cooler setup. I have no idea if the pots are better but I'm going to quote you part of an email he sent me:
Quote:
Hi Jon,
Can you believe my pedals are acting up again. You still have that part available?
This is driving me crazy!
Thanks,
XXXXXX
He had inquired with me after seeing my old video, before I released these. He is referring to the new CSR pedals, not the standard ones... I haven't asked him how long he's had the pedals. Anyhow, something to think about. I will post back here after I get news of whether or not the filter works with them.
I decided to let people submit a request for notification when they are available and they will be serviced on a first come first served basis. I don't really feel comfortable taking people's money without having the stock on hand... You just never know what might come up.
I have received word from a tester that these do in fact work with the new CSR base model pedals. He was having constant issues with them and they are now working perfectly. :) So, there ya go.
I have received word from a tester that these do in fact work with the new CSR base model pedals. He was having constant issues with them and they are now working perfectly. :) So, there ya go.
sounds like it's time to make some more and start publicising them on more forums chap!
Damn basher...thats really awesome! Great work! I did take the plundge and upgraded to the CSPs at the end of 2010. I still have my standard pedals (now stored in the attic). Your device would have been much cheaper but oh well lol
Dear Basher Boards...
Having gone primarily PC racing now, I was really looknig forward to get the full experince of my turbo s wheel. Well prob is the damn pedals were so flaky and sporadic that i wound up tossing the thing in the corner and lawyer4ever came to my rescue with a logitech drving force gt wheel. There was just no way i was going to afford or get ok for clubsorts...and honestly, alittle preturbed I was going to have to buy a set of pedals. So, I must say for a cheap wheel, the logitech has been great and is punished greatly every week and it still keeps chuggin alone..but yes no xbox compatibility. I had reverted back to the MS wheel for Forza at the time as the clutch would constantly kick in while racing on the turbo s and i would loose speed or get unpredictable corner exits.
Well, today in the mail came a little yellow bubble envelop from Basher Boards. Upon opening the very well sealed package...I found to my delight, inside was a baggie containing a 10'ft cable, easy to read instructions and my little black box. I was excited to see what this little gem could do. Now remeber , having put away the Fanatec... I had to come back and reinstall the drivers for the wheel on my pc and fired up the Fanatec Control program. before i installed the PF1 i decided to test and see if the old problems were still there. Yup almost 5 minutes for the wheel to recognize the pedals and when it did, the meters for each pedal were bouncing everywhere...wasn't getting full gas and the clutch was engaging almost half way EVERY time. So...time to see what the little black box could do. Folled the instruction to turn wheel off , unplug pedals , put filter box in between and reconnect with supplied cable and fired the wheel back on...
Went to the Fanatec control screen and no meter readings...nothing...oh oh..what happened? Well nothing....nothing WAS happening cause the dirty signal from the pedals was being filtered...press the gas...gas meter followed my foot movement smoothly..and NO clutch value on it's meter! Same with brake, smooth intime levels on the meter..and exact same for clutch...mash the pedals, stomp on the brakes, speed shift with the clutch...Perfect! Nothing came on or triggered or flickered that wasn't supposed to be! My turbo s now gets to have the dust blown off it and can resume it's place on my desktop for what it was meant to do...fun, accurate and responsive gameplay! You actually saved my wheel from becoming a swapped item for another Logitech GT back up wheel!
Thanks BasherBoards, You're a Life (while in the fanatecs case) Saver!
Sincerely Ian
(Jon you're welcome to take this as a testemonial for your website if you want)
The subject matter written above is 100% true and accurate and is in no way fabricated to promote the product. It does exactly as it says it will..amazing..someone actually knows what that means these days :)
I just wanted to let you guys know that after testing it doesn't look like these work with the clubsports. So... if your expensive pedals aren't working, sorry :( I don't even have a set to test with and probably won't ever.
I think that Your box can work when the signal will be filtered only for throttle and clutch as i think they are still oridinary pots - brake as load cells going vie amplifier etc. and can not work. I'm not sure what the construction of the elite pedals is... but when the problem is poor quality pots You can always connect filter straight to the pots - some soldering - or make in-out plugs for pedals board.....
Here's a video I made tonight showing what they do. My pedals were actually recognized by the wheel without the filter this evening... That's a rarity.
Anyhow, if nothing else it's good for a laugh watching me fumble through it :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oq3q7UOiQw8
This should be posted on the Fanatec wheel fansite: www.f-wheel.com. I hope Thomas doesnt get upset at you for fixing his pedals lol
Since youre good with circuits Basher, you may be able to fix the mic issues with the Fanatec wheels too. Where I would start is comparing the mic circuit on the MS Wireless Wheel with the one on the Fanatec. It should be basically the same. It would be sooooo cool if there were a little box to plug in between the mic port on the wheel and whatever wired mic you want to use, and it works..every time. The small box may even require its own power, like a couple AA's or a 9V. I have a spare 911 wheel for parts, and I can offer you the mic circuit from it, if you want it. It does work fine with my standard wired MS headset when I used it last. Whats interesting, is that while my X11 mic works with the Fanatec wheel quite well, after a long racing session (usually about 45mins to an hour) the wheel will do funny things. Like disconnect from the Xbox, FFB *sticks* the wheel all the way to the left, or act as if I unplugged the mic cord from the wheel even though I did not. Any of those require the wheel to be shut off and back on. But those things ONLY happen when I use the X11, not the standard wired headset. I'm thinking maybe there is a grounding conflict between the X11 and the Fanatec, since the X11 is powered separately from the wheel. Or the other possibility is just the wheel itself getting too hot and it just freaks out. Whatever I can do to assist let me know.
Actually, I posted this over at f-wheel.com already, if you feel like saying some kind words there I wouldn't mind ;) Here's the topic: http://f-wheel.com/forums/index.php/topic,1744.0.html
I will take a look at the mic. situation. My has never worked either and it really doesn't make much sense that it doesn't.
Also, check out this video that SeahawksFan did... it demonstrates the effect of the filter much much better than my video did...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpjvNtefMV4
Mr. B
Is it possible that you may have the answer for the CSR ELITE Wheel and the problem with headsets, such as the Turtle Beach 500's, that do not work with the CSR Elite Wheel. Here I have a $550 Wheel and cannot use my headset to communicate with others while playing Forza 4. Works Fantastic with PS3. TV Sound and Microsoft Bluetooth and headset doesn't cut it. I need my Turtle Beach Headset ($250) to work. Here we have a company (Microsoft) who licesenses others to make products and support their systems and yet they are not compatible.
Ok so I did some research on this last night... Based upon what I have found and without having a set in my hands... Here's what I can tell you about the Clubsport, CSR Elite, etc. pedals.
They use a load cell for the brake. The load cell itself is cheap not intended for the duty cycle it's being used for. Much like the pots in the standard wheel. The surrouning mechanism, could well be contributing to them failing.
The gas and clutch are using hall sensors which I'm not going to explain here, but they are contactless and should never wear out.
All three pedals are being run through a circuit board which generates signals that are then sent to the wheel.
My short answer as to using this filter with them is you can't. (Seahawks tested that for me already) My short answer for why is, I don't know until I get a set in my hands to mess with. What I'd LOVE, is to make a circuit board to replace theirs and a new braking mechanism that doesn't break. hehe pardon the pun :) Using a load cell is a marketing gimmick and the same "feel" can be accomplished a number of ways while maintaining accuracy and longevity.
I believe the $80 CSR pedals still use pots... and if that is the case, this filter should work with them. However, I still need someone to test that for me.
Does this also apply to the CSP's? By the way the CSR pedals don't have the load cell. I ask because the CSP's are to be my next upgrade but I am a heavy user of my kit, usualy several hours at a time and I need to know that what I buy will be up to the job.
The stardard clubsport pedals which is what I think CSP is, use the load cell. I'm sure they will be fine for you, many people around here have them. You might buy an extra load cell with them though as I think they are no longer producing them. It seems as though it's a consumable part based upon what I've read.
And here is my review of the BasherBoards PF1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkWke79jav4
Great job on this Jon :)
Awesome stuff Bash. I hope you sell a ton. Sorry I cannot use them for my Clubsports. I had to change out the load cell last night. :(
Damn man. :( Sorry to hear about the load cell. If anyone has a spare one of these, I'd love to take a look at it. I know what they look like in general, but I'm curious about the one in the clubsports.
Some good news for you CSR pedal users, possibly... I have a guy that will be testing the box for me with his CSR pedals. The CSR pedals are basically the same thing as the old pedals in a much cooler setup. I have no idea if the pots are better but I'm going to quote you part of an email he sent me:
I'm officially sold out. Yay! 8 in 2 days, that's not too shabby. Couldn't have done it without the help of Ian and Seahawks!
Your welcomed dude :)
I think your product placement in the Spazcar BasherBoards 100 from Daytona should help out too ;)
Now you just gotta adjust your site...
Now accepting preorders...As each item is individually assembled by hand and tested before delivery, please allow 3 to 4 weeks for delivery. :p
I decided to let people submit a request for notification when they are available and they will be serviced on a first come first served basis. I don't really feel comfortable taking people's money without having the stock on hand... You just never know what might come up.
That makes perfect business sense..nicely handled :)
Just a little update...
I have received word from a tester that these do in fact work with the new CSR base model pedals. He was having constant issues with them and they are now working perfectly. :) So, there ya go.
sounds like it's time to make some more and start publicising them on more forums chap!