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update #2

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bi9_ca7

well, i finally bottled yesterday. Boy thats a lot of work! Now i see why everyone says to keg instead of bottle.


So, now im playing the waiting game once again......i did find out that the PET bottles i bought  are short enough that i cant fit an entire load on my bottle tree. And i couldnt get my Vinator to work at all. The spring in the assembly forced itself out of position. Spent a good fifteen minutes on it before giving up, opting for dunking bottles in scalding hot cleaning solution. All in all, it went pretty well. The instructions on making the priming solution were not clear,giving me two options for different priming sugars, so i guessed. Hopefuly i dont get a bunch of fountains in the spare tub as they sit.


In about a week, i will try one or two and see how the conditioning is going, so until then, cheers!


ca7

Comments (7)

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TANK·
Everything you've downloaded off marketplace you can re-download at no charge. So you haven't lost anything that way. The only thing you've lost are save games. It's a good idea to just use a mem cart as your save game location. Laptop HDDs don't have a great lifespan so it's a good idea to utilize mem carts for your saves and your gamer profile. \r \r
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Durty·
You're HOT!!\r \r \r \r \r \r \r \r \r \r If you want, I can keep you busy so you don't notice that it's gone too bad. \r :) \r I would like that a lot...\r hehe
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J-Cat·
WFT is going on? Cat Crunch, oneimos, yourself (obviously Durty too...) all have red rings o death. Is there a plague?
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ATC_1982·
Good luck ...
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Snuphy·
Just about any natural sugar source can be used for priming. Corn sugar seems most common. I noted you're rockin' with Northern Brewer. If you're interested, they have a priming calculator.\r \r http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/\r
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Snuphy·
Missed your question in your last post about whether you should bottle. If the airlock hasn’t bubbled for awhile, it’s probably ok to bottle. The only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings a couple/few days apart. If the gravity readings are the same, it's done, bottle. If they are different, not done, wait. The gravity readings should also be about what you expect, about 1.010ish for your kit.\r \r If healthy and pitched in an appropriate amount into an oxygenated wort, most ale yeasts will finish active fermentation in about 3-5 days. The two week thing is a decent rule of thumb to promote decent results for newbs. It’s also generally a good thing to leave your beer on yeast for more than just the time fermentation takes. The yeast continues to work some magic to clean up the beer even after obvious fermentation is over. And the extra time lets yeast and other solids settle out of the beer. So two weeks (or 3 or 4) can be a good thing.\r \r FWIW, I don’t do the 2 gravity reading thing to see if my ales of average gravity are done. I (usually) wait at least 2 weeks. Then I prep for packaging. But just before I put any beer in a bottle or keg, I take a gravity reading and taste the beer. If all is as I reasonably expect, I package. Otherwise I’ll put the airlock back on and punt. In fact I currently have 5.5 gallons of beer wrapped in a towel in our guest bathroom shower stall . . . . .\r
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bi9_ca7·
yea, the airlock stopped about a week into fermentation. I did give it a few more days to clean itself up. I checked a bottle this morning, and it seems to be building pressure pretty nicely. Next on my shopping list is a glass carboy and a yeast starter kit. I thought about trying to harvest the yeast, but i dont think im ready for that experience.